Benton County, Tennessee

by Tyler Kirkendall

A women and her black dog kayak near a wall structure.

Benton County, TN, is best known for its outdoor recreational spaces, making it the perfect stop for travelers on the Tennessee RiverLine. Whether you need a quick bite at the water’s edge, a charming small town and the amenities that come with it, or a historic place to sleep among the stars on a massive wildlife preserve, you can find it in Benton County. You’ll find that the river is central to the identity of the region and most of its attractions, including the world’s capital of freshwater pearl production.

Visit Benton County!

Outdoor Recreation

Nathan Bedford Forrest State Park is a major attraction in Benton County, and like many other stops along the Tennessee RiverLine, is a great place for fishing, hiking, exploring biodiverse ecosystems, learning Civil War history, and more.

Today, nine different hiking trails at the park make up a network of more than 20 miles. From the 6.85-mile Red Rock Overnight Trail to the quick-and-painless .3-mile Polk Creek Wildflower Trail, there are worthwhile routes for any skill or energy level.

Fishing is a favorite activity of visitors, and this stretch of the Tennessee River and through to Kentucky Lake and 2,300-acre Big Sandy Unit Tennessee National Wildlife Refuge (which continues into Henry County), is a popular spot for anglers. Whether you are a seasoned largemouth bass fisherman or you can count your lifetime catches on your hands, this tranquil area is perfect to drop a line.

Creek mouths and embayments are popular spots to rack up catches, with the most common being bluegill and redear sunfish, as well as crappie in the spring. Spring and fall are best for bass fishing, while catfish are snagging the most bait in the summer and fall.

State hunting regulations apply in Big Sandy, where waterfowl and turkey hunting, as well as big and small game trapping are permitted during their respective seasons.

Paddling is, of course, safe and encouraged. The quantity of parks along the Tennessee RiverLine ensures plenty of spots to get out of and put in canoes, kayaks, and paddleboards. Rental kayaks and paddleboards are available at the park office and at Eva Beach. This sandy beach is open to the public to get some swimming in before the sun sets.

From owls and eagles to a variety of gulls and songbirds, these parks are a temperate birding paradise. Migratory and wintering waterfowl frequent Benton County, and raptors are always patrolling its skies.

Another relaxing outdoor offering comes in the form of Birdsong Drive-In Theater in Camden. Between affordable meals and an eclectic mix of films on the silver screen under the night sky, the drive-in is a great place for late-night unwinding if you’ve had your fill of nature-centric recreation.

Visiting the Past

Benton County land is dripping with history (more on that later). Some of Tennessee’s oldest evidence of human settlement was excavated from the region in 1940 at the “Eva” site, which revealed invaluable clues about how people lived there in 5,200 B.C. and the following centuries. The site is now under water, but the surrounding area is still home to a few archaeological hotspots. The lands were popular hunting grounds for the Chickasaw people before the United States bought the land from them in 1818 with the Treaty of Tuscaloosa.

Nathan Bedford Forrest State Park and Johnsonville State Historic Park across the river (outside the borders of Benton County) commemorate the 1864 Battle of Johnsonville, wherein Confederate Major General Forrest, then a cavalry commander, attacked the Union supply base on Johnsonville’s shore.

The 23-day battle ended with Federal troops fleeing their fort along the banks, losing millions of dollars worth of ammunition and boats. 150 Northern soldiers were captured, and the opposition reported only two lost soldiers and nine wounded. Much of the former battlefield is submerged in Kentucky Lake, but a cannon remains pointed at the once-Johnsonville shoreline from Pilot’s Knob, where the Union Army lost its fortifications.

Also on the somber side of Benton County history, the Patsy Cline Memorial recognizes the site where the country icon and several other musicians died in a 1963 plane crash.

History buffs should also check out Nathan Bedford Forrest State Park’s Tennessee River Folklife Interpretive Center and Museum for more information on the battle, as well as relics of riverside life over the past few centuries. Rare and well-preserved rivercraft are on exhibit, with a fully-intact 1950s-era jon boat being the highlight of many visitors’ trips.

This is not the only museum in town, however, as Benton County is home to the unique Tennessee River Freshwater Pearl Museum and Farm. Here, freshwater mussels–a very positive indicator of the waterway’s health–are the most dependable source of freshwater pearls on the planet. First cultivated on Kentucky Lake, pearl-producing mussels from Benton County are shipped around the world to help create more freshwater pearls, which are the official state gem of Tennessee.


Stopping for a Bite

Whether you can’t stray far from the water or you are equipped to head into town, Benton County offers plenty of options to meet a hungry traveler’s needs. The river is a central part of the local food scene, and some say Camden has the best fried catfish in the country.

A few restaurants sit right on the water’s edge, including Beaver Dam Restaurant & Marina, which offers classic American fare and a bar with lauded views of the water.

If you are visiting with a car, a drive up Highway 70 gives you quick access to plenty of restaurants in Camden, as well as a highly-rated sushi spot along the way called Sonkei.

Finish Line Diner, Downhome Family Restaurant, and The Daymaker Cafe offer all the American comfort you could ask for from a dining experience. Aden’s 2 Ice Cream & Deli curates a sit-down sandwich experience capped off with stunning frozen desserts.

If you are ready to unleash your inner carnivore, Rocky Ridge Pit offers local-favorite barbecue, while Country & Western Steakhouse & Catfish brings high-quality Southern plates to the table. If your palette is favoring lighter meats, Goodwings cooks up tons of different chicken and fish dishes.

Benton County offers everything you would expect from a stop along the Tennessee RiverLine. Fishing, food, Native American and Civil War history, and a stunning variety of flora and fauna make every visit unique. Steep yourself in its Southern charm on mile 98 of the Tennessee RiverLine.

History of the County

Archaeologists in the 1940s found evidence that the land Benton County residents now live on was inhabited at least 7,200 years ago. The Eva Site was the location of 180 burials, which University of Tennessee archaeologists excavated before Kentucky Lake was created in 1940. A nearby unincorporated community still uses the “Eva” name, which comes from the first postmaster’s daughter’s demands to name a town after her best friend, Eva Steele.

During the Archaic Period from roughly 8,000-1,000 B.C., people’s diets and lifestyles changed with the times. Some of the site’s earliest remains revealed deer hunting as the locals’ favorite way to fill their stomachs before a warmer, dryer climate encouraged a dietary shift in favor of mussel harvesting. Evidence shows that people in the area were particularly healthy for their time and they were well-equipped, too. Artifacts from different periods at the Eva site included hunting projectiles, grinding stones, pottery, a hearth, and much more.

The land was a favorite hunting ground for the Chickasaw people, and it remains a popular area for hunting and trapping today. Euro-American explorers liked to use the area as a crossroads for the larger region because of its varied elevation and relatively favorable river-crossing points.

The Jackson Purchase of 1818 made the land U.S. property as far as the legislature was concerned, and Benton County was created in 1835-36 from parts of Humphreys and Henry Counties.

Benton County came to be named after former Senator Thomas Hart Benton, who is best remembered for wounding Andrew Jackson in a duel. After he spoke out against the spread of slavery, the Tennessee legislature officially declared that the county was named after an “old and respected” early settler of the area, David Benton. The two were not related.

The town of Camden–the political and commercial center of Benton County–grew steadily over the 19th Century, though its growth was not as drastic as nearby Big Sandy. An east-west railroad connection turned Big Sandy into a hotspot overnight, and an abundance of natural resources supported plenty of newcomers and their businesses.

During its most bustling period in the 1800s, Big Sandy had salons, a sawmill, a canning factory, retail stores, a bank, a dentist, a pencil factory, funeral home, hotels, and more. After the railroad left town, it took Big Sandy’s industrial identity with it.

Following this twist of fate, Big Sandy’s biggest draw today is its seclusion and undisturbed natural beauty. Amenities which once supported travelers focused on business are now a place of rest for families and individuals who find respite in the outdoors.

Civil War Deep Dive

Tennessee’s geography as the northernmost state in the Confederacy during the Civil War meant it was both a political and actual battleground. Benton County residents were largely Southern Democrats in the mid-1800s, meaning most supported the spread of slavery and advocated for state’s rights.

In November of 1864, Major General Nathan Bedford Forrest–a Confederate best known for his courage and ruthlessness in violent, meticulously-planned raids– led an attack on a Union munitions base on the shore of Old Johnsonville.

The raid lasted 23 days and its primary goal was to stop the Union from pushing further into Georgia. The cavalry leader’s reputation preceded him, and Union soldiers feared the oncoming Rebel forces. With artillery positioned across the river from the Federal base, the two sides exchanged fire over the Tennessee.

Northern fighters set fire to the Confederates’ supplies and boats, and were met with a great deal of resistance. The fires illuminated the escape route for Forrest and his men, who had succeeded in destroying more than $2 million in Union property.

Ultimately, the battle wasn’t much more than a very expensive roadblock and distraction for the United States, whose army successfully moved on into Georgia without the more than 20 boats destroyed in the raid. Nathan Bedford Forrest State Park is controversially named after the Rebel leader who took 150 prisoners from the scene.

Much of the battlefield’s land is now submerged in Kentucky Lake, but the 1,075-acre Johnsonville State Historic Park commemorates the battle. Remnants and recreations of housing, rifle pits, artillery and more stay on site for visitors to learn about the battle and get an idea of what it was like as a Union munitions depot.


Benton County Today

Benton County has more than 15,000 residents as of 2020. Camden, the county seat, is the largest town in the county, with roughly 3,500 residents. Camden’s streets are lined with restaurants, mostly typical American and country fare, and fried catfish is the signature dish of the area. Camden in particular has a reputation for cooking up the nation’s best fried catfish.

Benton County’s history as a railroad town means there is plenty of space for guests, as resorts, hotels, and campgrounds can be found in close proximity with its nature-centric attractions.

Nathan Bedford Forrest State Park, Big Sandy and Duck River Units of the Tennessee National Wildlife Refuge, and even more parks just across Kentucky Lake bring in visitors for a multitude of reasons.

Exceptional bass, crappie, catfish, and bluegill fishing attracts visitors from all over the nation. Waterfowl, other small game and deer hunting around Tennessee National Wildlife Refuge also bring in plenty of outdoor enthusiasts.

Benton County’s most distinctive attraction is the Tennessee Freshwater Pearl Museum, which is not only unique to the nation, but has experienced global recognition as the only place pearl-producing freshwater mussels are sourced. Visitors can tour a pearl farming site right on the shore of Kentucky Lake, and the state of Tennessee recognizes freshwater pearls as the Official State Gem.